The Divine Dish

Florence for Foodies, Nude and Food Walking Tour, Florence

Posted on Apr 18, 2012 under Archives, Italy | No Comment

I had been emailing Nat and Sam from the Florence for Foodies walking tour for about a month, so I was very happy to finally meet with both of them.  They started Florence for Foodies about two years ago and it has grown into the top rated walking tour of Florence.  I went on two tours with them, the Nude and Food and the Venus and Wine tour.  Both women are licensed guides, which in Florence means many hours of studying history and art and taking lots of tests to get a certificate enabling you to call yourself a guide.  I met with them the first day I arrived and they were nice enough to give me a private tour of Florence and let me know where to go for shopping and eating until I took their tours a few days later.  They really hooked me up and I made two new good friends.

The Nude and Food tour begins at the Accademia (sorry, no pics allowed in there) to view Michelangelo’s masterpiece David.  Sam gave us a great history of the artist and the sculpture, and we didn’t have to wait in the huge lines.  We walked straight in and right to the huge nude of David.  We spent about an hour at the museum and moved ahead to the food portion of the tour.

We headed to Bar Pasticceria amidst the open San Lorenzo market vendor stalls for a bite of traditional Florentine breakfast.

We enjoyed some cappuccinos and Italian coffees and samplings of muffins and cakes and good conversation among foodies from America and Britain.  Next stop was the Mercato Centrale, a must for any foodie visiting Florence, with stalls and stalls of all kinds of great food.

The inside market is huge with meats, cheeses and all kinds of other lovely things to eat on the ground floor and vegetables on the upper second floor.  We sampled a variety of great food here, including:

We started at the peanut and dried fruit stand and had a nice mixed sample of both.

Next we moved on to the Nerbone stall to try a staple of Florentine food – the lampredotto – a sandwich made out of cow stomach.  We had samples of both the shoulder and the stomach and both were good.

Next came a cheese tasting with various stages of aged Parmigiano Reggiano cheese – the good stuff.  Only cheese from a certain region (basically Parma to Reggio Emilio) can be official Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and it must have the official stamp on the outside of the cheese wheel.  Much more on that subject will be in my posts from the cheese factories in Parma, but here is what we sampled at the food market.

Sam gave us a history of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and then we sampled different ages of cheese – 1 year to 3 years aged and some including fennel and truffles.  My fave was the one with truffles.

If you aren’t planning to go to Parma, Reggio or Bologna on your Italy trip, I highly recommend buying your Parmigiano Reggiano at the food market.  Prices vary, but you can get a vacuum sealed kilo for around 15 euro.

We moved on to another butcher stall to taste some Parma ham and salami.

Here is what we sampled:

We also got time to walk through the market on our own to view the many stalls and buy products.  Here are some of the spots I visited:

After a short break we met up at Conti, a stall that sells pates, spreads, olive oil, vinegars and many other products.

Here we tasted different toppings for cheese as well as a very nice vinegar sampling.

We tasted everything from three year vinegar to 50 year vinegar, each got sweeter as it aged.  An outstanding tasting.

Next we moved on to a nice local wine shop where we tasted lots of wines.

After we were very tipsy we walked back to central Florence to taste some gelato at Perche No, the best place for gelato in Florence.  I visited several times during my stay in Florence and still dream about the gelato served here.

We sampled tons of gelato here.  Three large cups with three different flavors in each cup!

My fave was the pistachio, zabaione and chocolate mouse combo.

I also went on the Venus and Wine tour, sorry no pics allowed in the museums, which is a nice tour of the Uffizi highlights and some good wine.  Florence for Foodies also offers a ghost tour and private tours.  I highly recommend going on the Nude and Food tour right when you arrive so that you can get all the great info on restaurants from Nat and Sam and enjoy visiting them during the rest of your stay in Florence.  The Nude and Food tour runs 89 Euro and is well worth it, all of the folks on my tour agreed it was one of the highlights of their trip.  You can make reservations for tours at www.florenceforfoodies.com.

Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo, Florence

Posted on Apr 17, 2012 under Archives, Italy | No Comment

I stayed at two properties in Florence, each on opposite sides of the Arno River.   The 16th century Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo is mere steps away from the Duomo but despite the constant crowds of tourists visiting and viewing the famous landmark the hotel remains a peaceful retreat in the heart of historic Florence.

Owner Marchesa Ginerva Niccolini d Camugiliano turned her husband’s palazzo into an oppulently decorated 10 room hotel.

I stayed in one of the smaller rooms when I first arrived but my quarters still appeared quite spacious due to the incredibly high ceilings.

I returned for one night before departing Italy and was upgraded to a huge room with large original allegorical frescoes, damask drapes, a huge canopy bed and marble floored bathrooms.  I loved this room and wish I could have stayed for a week!

Large and delicious buffet breakfasts are included in a stay at the Palazzo Niccolini and the airy beautiful comfortable sitting room is open for breakfast dining and all day for refreshments.

I highly recommend a stay at the Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo.  It’s perfect location and peaceful ambiance make it a great choice for a stay in Florence.  Located at Via Dei Servi 2, reservations can be made at 055 282412.

Dinner at Trattoria 4 (Quattro) Leoni, Florence

Posted on Apr 14, 2012 under Archives, Italy | 2 Comments

My first dinner on my “visit Lidia Bastianich at her winery” trip to Italy was at Trattoria 4 Leoni, also know to tourists as Trattoria Quattro Leoni.  Tucked away in the quiet quaint and small Piazza dell Passera, this delightful eatery is close to the Ponte Vecchio and the Pitti Palace.  That is, if you can find it.

The restaurant’s official address (and the one in guidebooks and given to foodies)  is on Via de Vellutini, but it really isn’t on this narrow long dark street.  I walked up and down for about 10 minutes, met four people that were also looking for the restaurant, when I heard kitchen pans clanking.  I followed my ears off of Via de Vellutini on a small side street and there it was.  Housed on the Piazza della Passera, a little patio and the restaurant!

The other obstacle in obtaining a prized seat at the Trattoria is their reservation process.  My hotel called and made a reservation, but when I arrived it was nowhere on the books.  I luckily took the reservation card the hotel provided and showed it to the staff, and pulled the “I am a food writer here is my card and I would love to include you in my articles” story in broken Italian, and it worked, but I highly recommend bringing in your email or printed reservation with you to secure your table.  And, reservations are a must, especially for the patio area.  That said, here is what I thoroughly enjoyed while dining here:

I wasn’t missing any chance of another Florentine crostini, and some lovely fresh ham and salami, so I got the antipasto platter.  Lovely, with a nice liver crostini.

4 Leoni loves displaying pics of the many celebrities who come here.  Above my table were pictures of Hollywood A listers Dustin Hoffman, Sting, Spike Lee, Kevin Costner and Anthony Hopkins.  I sat in one of two inside areas, both old school Italian trattoria style with dim lighting, wood beam high ceilings, stone walls and brick arches.  There is also a lovely romantic patio and if the weather permits make a reservation to sit al fresco overlooking the piazza.

I had no choice but to order their famed Fiocchetti di pera.  I had heard rave reviews from my Florence for Foodies friends as well as many Chowhound reviews, so I had the pear and three cheese filled ravioli for my main course.  I would travel all the way to Florence just to eat this dish again.  Fresh made ravioli filled with three cheeses and shaved pear, in a rich cream sauce with asparagus.  I took one bite and fell in love with this dish.

In addition to the outstanding food, another reason to visit is the really inexpensive wine.  13 Euros can get a really nice bottle of local wine.  I only had a glass as I had to walk all the way back to the Duomo to my hotel.  I stopped by the kitchen to thank the chef, who was busy butchering diners’ orders for  the famous bistecca alla fiorentina (huge raw Florence steak).

As I was heading to Grom to try some gelato, I didn’t have dessert.  I highly recommend visiting 4 Leoni for either lunch or dinner, but be sure to bring a map and look for the Piazza della Passera and make a reservation.   Official address, Via de Vellutini 1r, (remember, the restaurant is really OFF of this narrow street), 55 218562 for reservations.

Lunch at Coquinarius Restaurant in Florence

Posted on Apr 12, 2012 under Archives, Italy | No Comment

My first meal in Florence was at the charming Coquinarius restaurant.  My Florence for Foodies tour guide buddies Nat and Sam recommended I pop in to include the wine bar/restaurant in one of my articles.

This cozy Italian bistro only houses 10 tables, so even for lunch it’s best to make sure you make a reservation.  The brick ceiling and walls and wood banquettes and tables provide a charming setting.  I came to try their famed crostini plates.

My waiter recommended a nice glass of Bianco di Pitigliano to go with my mixed crostini appetizer and scozzese salad.  The wine was delicious.  Coquinarius has an extensive wine selection so I recommend to ask your waiter to select a bottle that will complement your order.

My mixed crostini plate was plenty for lunch all by itself.  I wasn’t expecting such large portions.  Included in my assortment was the following:

I started off with the mackerel and avocado crostini – both were light and resembled a mousse topping.

I moved on to the sun dried tomato and halibut with pepper jam crostini crostini.  Both were hearty and very tasty.

My favorites were the last three – the liver (delicious), sausage and cheese (like a ragu) and the goat cheese and fig crostini (a perfect match – creamy goat cheese and fruity fig).

Next came my Scozzese salad, with lettuce avocado, warm chicken, huge pieces of salty fatty bacon (the best part) and balsamic vinegar.  A perfect choice to match with the hearty crostini.

The chef also sent me out a sample of their ravioli with pear and cheese – Ravioli ripieni di formeaggio e pere – this was an excellent dish.  I was trying a full portion of this the same night at Quattro Leone restaurant, so I was happy to taste Coquinarius’ version of this dish.  If you are very hungry go for the cheese and pear ravioli, if not so hungry try the crostini appetizer.

I highly recommend enjoying a meal at Coquinarius while in Florence, just make sure to make a reservation ahead.  Another plus is it is on the same street as the famed gelatoria Grom, where you can walk over for some dessert.  Located at Via Delle Oche, 15. Call 055 230 2153 for reservations.