The Divine Dish

Dinner at Switch, Encore Las Vegas

Posted on Jul 26, 2010 under Archives | 1 Comment

Wynn’s in-house designer Roger Thomas was inspired by Switch’s location beside the atrium to create an environment unlike any other in Las Vegas, equal parts restaurant and theater. While guests dine, the restaurant frequently “switches” its physical appearance, transforming the space with changes in design such as disappearing walls that open to reveal a chandelier.

The vibrant, stylish decor includes walls covered in brilliant orange crocodile fabric and a cerused-oak floor partly hidden by a hand-tufted custom designed chocolate brown carpet that is splashed with vivid colors. Fabrics made from hemp and Venetian glass murals of large sunflowers add a lively touch to the scene. An alcove located in front of the wine cellar features floor-to-ceiling wine displays and an elevated chef’s table that can be used for private parties or wine tastings.

Chef Rene Lenger recently prepared a tasting menu for me when I visited the restaurant.

I started with an appetizer of grilled octopus.

Next came a nice asparagus and mushroom risotto.

I also sampled a nice grilled scallop, pea puree, fresh peas, and corn.

My main course was the filet mignon with shaved truffles and a wine reduction sauce.  Delicious.

It came with a creamy side of mac n cheese.

For dessert, I got some cute donuts with raspberry and mango sauce  and ice cream cones with sorbet.

My favorite was the mango gelato.

Switch is located at 3131 Las Vegas Boulevard.  Reservations are recommended at 702/770-5340.

Interview with Chef Rene Lenger, Switch, Encore Las Vegas

Posted on Jul 26, 2010 under Archives, Chefs, Interviews | No Comment

I sat down with Chef Lenger for a short chat before sampling a great tasting menu at Switch restaurant, located at Encore Las Vegas.

 
René Lenger is the executive chef of Switch at Encore, the new signature resort in the  Wynn collection, where he serves modern seafood and steakhouse fare with an  emphasis on the finest market ingredients. Lenger joined Wynn Resorts in 2005 as  executive chef of The Country Club, A New American Steakhouse.

“At Switch, I hope to provide my guests with a truly unique dining experience,” says  Lenger. “The seasonally-inspired cuisine combined with the restaurant’s theatrics offers  an event that’s in a class of its own. There’s nothing like Switch in Las Vegas.”

Previously, Lenger spent seven years working alongside David Walzog, (former  executive chef of The Country Club, now executive chef of SW Steakhouse, also at  Wynn Las Vegas) at Strip House, Michael Jordan’s and Monkey Bar, where they were  both key members of the Glazier Group, a prominent restaurant company based in New
York.   Born in Vienna, Austria, Lenger grew up in a home where food played a major role. The  chef’s father was a professor at the esteemed Culinary Institute of Vienna and taught  Lenger at an early age how to make Austrian specialties such as taffelspitz and gulasch.  By the time Lenger graduated from high school, he was hooked on cooking and applied
to the Culinary Institute of Vienna where he graduated at the top of his class.

Upon graduation Lenger trained at Zu den drei Husaren under three-toque chef Ewald
Plachutta. While working under Plachutta, he would set off daily for the market, choosing
items for that evening’s menu.

By the early 90’s, Lenger seized the opportunity to come to New York to work at the
Rhiga Royal Hotel. To build upon his already impressive culinary background, he
decided to master pastry arts and accepted a position as assistant pastry chef at the
hotel. Lenger returned to Vienna in 1993 where he worked at another three-toque
restaurant, Altwienerhof, and then became an executive chef at Da’ Marcello. By 1996,
the chef was ready to move to the U.S. and was hired as executive chef at Theodore
Restaurant, a critically acclaimed Austrian-American brasserie in New York’s flatiron
district.

In 1999 Lenger was introduced to restaurateur Peter Glazier of The Glazier Group and
was immediately asked to helm the kitchen at the Glazier Group’s Strip House
restaurant in New York City (in addition, he later helmed the kitchens of Strip House
Houston and Palm Beach Gardens).  Under Lenger’s supervision, Forbes magazine named Strip House as one of the “Forbes
2003 All-Star Eateries in New York.” In addition, Time Out New York’s Eating and
Drinking Guide 2001 nominated Strip House as one of the year’s “Best New
Steakhouses.” Lenger is also a published author in Austria and has written several
books on culinary arts used at many schools throughout Eastern Europe.

Lenger incorporates his love for quality products at Switch, where he brings his
trademark flair to this dynamic dining destination.

Dinner at the Blue Water Cafe, Vancouver

Posted on Jun 30, 2010 under Archives | No Comment

An anchor in Canada’s culinary landscape, Blue Water Cafe is one of the top destinations for seafood.  While visiting Vancouver for an article, I took my dad to a tasting menu at the renowned restaurant.

Housed in a handsome brick and beam heritage warehouse, Blue Water Cafe is in the heart of historic Yaletown, one of the city’s vibrant and hip neighborhood.

Executive Chef Frank Pabst is known for his innovative and brilliantly executed West Coast plates, insisting on using seafood from wild and sustainable harvest. At the raw bar,  master Yoshi Tabo serves exceptional sushi and sashimi original dishes.  The sweeping main bar leads out to the heated patio and the private wine room holds the extensive award-winning wine and bubble selection.

Enhanced by the intuitive service from Stephan Cachard’s dedicated team, the dynamic dining room provides action views of the opposing  open kitchen and raw bar.  Here is what Chef Frank Pabst served us on our tasting menu.

We started with fresh oysters, kusshi and sawmill bay, paired with a nice 2007 Sumac Ridge Tribute Brut from Okanagan Valley.

We especially loved the Kusshi oyster, on the left, for it’s plumpness and clean flavor.

Next came out a halibut tataki from the sushi bar with shredded radish, green onions and ponzu sauce.

Next we tried a grilled spot prawn with a madras curry, pineapple and tomatillo salsa with a coconut foam.  Delicious.

Following the spot prawn, we each got a unique preparation of crab.  Dad got the Kani Salad, with pickled cucumber, yuzu peel and chili threads.

Equally yummy was my crab salad, with white asparagus panna cotta, celery, peanuts, raisins and a green apple froth.  We both thought these dishes were amazing.  Paired with Black Hills Alibi, Okanagan Valley 2008.

Then Chef Pabst sent out an arctic char with braised leeks, fennel, duneness crab and wakame seaweed.  This was served with a Mission Hill SLC Chardonnay from Okanagan Valley, 2006.

Our last dish before dessert was a Vancouver favorite, West Coast Sablefish (which is cod).  Served with a miso sake glaze, baby bok choy, edamame, quinoa and shiitake mushrooms, kombu dashi with soy and yuzu, paired with a Kenwood Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley.  Very tasty!

It was nice to spend some time with dad and finally take him with me to a tasting menu.  We both loved Chef Pabst’s tasting menu.

For dessert, we received this beautiful plate of red berry and grand marnier sabayon, nougot glace and raspberry chocolate mousse.  A great way to finish off the meal.

I highly recommend visiting Blue Water Cafe the next time you travel to Vancouver.  Located at 1095 Hamilton Street in Yaletown, reservations can be made at 604/688-8078.

Interview with Chef Frank Pabst of Blue Water Cafe, Vancouver

Posted on Jun 30, 2010 under Archives, Chefs, Interviews | No Comment

Widely recognized for his creative impetus and leadership in responsible seafood practices, Chef Frank Pabst leads Vancouver’s Blue Water Cafe’s brigade of expert chefs in what has been called “one of North America’s finest seafood restaurants.”

With tenures in Michelin-starred restaurants throughout Germany and France, including La Becasse (Aachen), the Hotel Negresco (Cannes) and Restaurant de Bacon (Antibes), Pabst was schooled in the rigorous classical technique that provides the foundation for his diverse cooking style today.

Directing the kitchens at Blue Water Cafe since 2003, Pabst has consistently demonstrated excellence, both in the procurement of impeccably fresh, sustainable seafood—Blue Water Cafe is a founding member of the Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise program—and in the execution of its cookery, showcasing his trademark “complexity without complication.”

My dad and I visited Blue Water Cafe for a tasting menu and we sat down with Chef Pabst to talk a bit about Blue Water Cafe and his philosophy on food.